Gilbert, Arizona only  ·  $99 flat, roof vents included
(480) 779-7089

Dryer takes too long to dry

Nine times out of ten this is airflow, not a dying appliance. Here is the two-minute test that tells you which one you have, before you spend money with anybody.

The test

Put the dryer on air fluff, the no-heat setting, and start it. Walk outside to wherever your vent comes out and put your hand near it.

Strong, steady air pushing out. Your duct is clear. A cleaning will not help you, and the problem is inside the machine, usually a heating element or a thermostat. Call an appliance repair tech, not us.

Weak air, or nothing at all. The duct is restricted. That is the entire thing we do, and it is $99.

If your vent goes out the roof and you cannot safely get to it, there is an indoor version. Pull the dryer out, disconnect the duct from the back of it, and run a load with the hose off. If it dries fine that way, the duct is your problem. Just be aware you will be venting lint and moisture into the room, so only do it for one load and open a window.

That test costs nothing and it sorts out the two possibilities in about two minutes. Do it before you call anyone, us included.

Clear One cycle dries a normal load. Laundry room stays cool. Restricted Two cycles. Hot laundry room. Most homes that call us. Blocked Dryer shuts off mid-cycle. A nest, or years of nothing.
What that airflow is telling you. Most homes that call us are the middle case and have been for a year or more without realizing it.

If it is the duct, what is actually in there?

Packed lint, most of the time

This is the majority of what we find. It builds so gradually that people adjust without noticing. You start running a second cycle sometimes, then usually, then always, and at no point is there a day where it obviously broke. Two to three years of normal use in a Gilbert home with an upstairs roof-vented run will do it. Longer on a downstairs side-wall run.

A crushed transition hose

The ribbed foil flex behind the dryer gets pinched flat the moment somebody pushes the machine back to close the laundry closet door. This is extremely common in the newer Gilbert builds where the closets are barely deeper than the appliance. It chokes the airflow at the source, before the lint in the duct even matters, and people spend years assuming their dryer is just old.

Crushed foil flex Squashed flat when the dryer is pushed back. Every ridge grabs lint. Chokes airflow at the source. Rigid transition duct Cannot crush. Smooth wall, nothing for lint to grab. This is the $98 hose upgrade.
What is usually happening in the first three feet. The duct in the wall can be spotless while this is folded almost shut.

A nest in the roof cap

This one is sudden, not gradual. If your dryer was working fine last month and is useless now, and it is anywhere between February and May, look here first. Full page on it.

A duct that has separated

The joint comes apart inside a wall or up in the attic, and now the dryer is venting hot, wet, lint-laden air into the structure of your house. You often smell it before you find it, and there is sometimes a damp patch or a stain on drywall near the laundry. This one does real damage and it is worth dealing with quickly.

The exterior vent flap stuck shut

The flapper rusts, or lint jams it, and it stops opening. Easy to check from the ground on a downstairs side-wall vent: run the dryer and watch whether the flap lifts. If it does not, that is your whole problem and it is a two-minute fix.

The lint trap housing

Less common as a sole cause, but it stacks on top of everything else. The cavity your lint screen slides into fills with everything the screen misses, and nothing empties it. On an older machine it can be a genuine restriction on its own.

The screen You clean this every load. It catches the obvious stuff and nothing else. The housing below it Everything the screen misses drops in here and stays. Nothing empties it on its own. This is the $98 add-on.
The screen you clean every load, and the housing underneath that nobody does.

What a clogged vent is doing to the appliance

More than making laundry slow. Every dryer has a thermal fuse that cuts power when the machine overheats, and a restricted vent makes it overheat on a regular basis. That fuse is tripping, the heating element is running well past its design conditions, and the whole machine is working harder than it was built to on every single load.

The result is that dryers die young. A machine that should last twelve to fifteen years dies at six or seven, and the owner concludes they bought a bad dryer. Very often they bought a fine dryer and never cleaned the vent.

A replacement dryer runs eight hundred to fifteen hundred dollars. The cleaning is $99 every year or two.

What we do about it

  1. Inspect the whole path. Hose, duct, elbows, termination. Problems hide at the ends more often than people expect.
  2. Brush the full run with a rotary brush, worked from both ends where the run allows it.
  3. Vacuum continuously so the lint leaves the house rather than compacting further in.
  4. Reconnect, run it, and show you the pile. You will know immediately whether that was the problem.

Why hire us instead of the other guy

There are a lot of companies in the East Valley who will clean a dryer vent. Here is exactly what separates this one, in plain terms, so you can hold anyone else you call to the same standard.

We only work in Gilbert

Not the whole Valley. Not Phoenix, not Scottsdale, not Surprise. Gilbert. That means we already know that a Power Ranch two-story vents through the roof, that the laundry closets in the newer Cooley Station builds are tight enough to crush a hose, and that the older homes off Gilbert Road have short side-wall runs that nobody has ever touched. A company covering four hundred square miles is guessing at your house. We are not.

We only do dryer vents

This is the whole business. We are not a carpet company that also does vents when the phone is slow, and nobody is going to show up and try to sell you an air duct package, a tile quote or a window special. You booked a dryer vent, you get a dryer vent, and we leave.

Roof vents are included, not an upcharge

This is the one that catches people. Most two-story homes in Gilbert terminate through the roof, and the common play in this trade is to quote a low number over the phone, arrive, look up at a two-story tile roof, and either add a fee or walk away. Our $99 covers the roof. Ask anyone else you call whether theirs does, before you book.

Every price is published

$99 for the cleaning. $98 for the lint trap housing. $98 for the hose upgrade. All three are on the pricing page where anyone can read them, which means there is no version of this where the number changes once we are standing in your laundry room. If we find something genuinely unusual, you hear about it and decide before any work happens.

We brush the full run

The cheap way to do this job is to point a blower or a shop vac into the opening, move the loose lint at the ends, and drive away in fifteen minutes. It looks like a cleaning and it leaves the compacted material in the middle of the run, which is the part actually restricting your dryer. We drive a rotary brush the entire length and run a vacuum the whole time so the lint leaves your house instead of getting pushed deeper into it.

You see what came out

At the end of the job there is a pile of what was in your vent, and we show it to you. It is the least sophisticated quality check in the world and it is also the only one that matters. You will know immediately whether the job was worth $99.

We tell you when you do not need something

Both add-ons are optional and we say so on every page. If your transition hose is already rigid and in good shape, you do not need the hose upgrade and we will tell you that standing right there. If your machine is two years old, the lint trap housing probably is not worth $98 yet. The easiest way to lose a customer for good is to sell them something they did not need, and this is a small town.

Common questions

Why does my dryer take two cycles to dry?

Almost always restricted airflow in the vent. The dryer produces hot, wet air and it has nowhere to go, so the moisture stays in the drum. Less often it is a failed heating element or thermostat in the machine itself.

How can I tell if it is the vent or the dryer?

Run the dryer on air fluff and feel the air at the outside vent. Strong steady air means the duct is clear and the problem is the appliance. Weak air or none means the duct is blocked.

Can a clogged dryer vent break my dryer?

Yes. Restricted airflow makes the machine overheat and trip its thermal fuse repeatedly, which shortens its life considerably. A lot of dryers that die at six or seven years died of a vent nobody cleaned.

My dryer shuts off partway through. Is that the vent?

Often, yes. That is usually the thermal fuse cutting power because the machine is overheating, and a blocked vent is the most common reason for that.

How much does it cost to fix?

If it is the vent, $99 for a standard cleaning in Gilbert. If it turns out to be the appliance, you want an appliance repair tech and we will tell you that.

Think it is the vent?(480) 779-7089

$99 flat. If we get there and it turns out to be your appliance, we will tell you that rather than clean something that did not need cleaning.